Tour of Čestmír Suška's Atelier

Today, 12/1, we had another field trip for my English class. We took the metro, took a transfer to another metro, a bus, and then finally trudged through the snow and blistering cold (it's about 15 degrees Fahrenheit in Prague) to our destination. We were visiting Čestmír Suška, one of the foremost Czech sculptors in the country in his atelier just outside Prague.

He took us on a tour of the place (a warehouse like area... that did not have heat) and described a lot of his pieces. His sculptures range from glass, wood and metal, but one thing they have in common is their gigantic weight and size. Suska carves intricate patterns, which he says he gets from curtains and lace table-cloths, into industrial junk, such as gas and beer canisters. The end result is that his massive, weighty sculptures seem skeletal and frail.

 Some of his pieces in his studio

And some more

A quote from his truly, "At first I felt that metal was something that was man-made, which is partly true, but all materials comes from nature, only in different ways. And I have to say that I work with metal in the same way that I work with wood, only it is easier, because I just go to some scrap yard, and it is so easy to find beautiful shapes, they are waiting there to be destroyed and I revive them. I bring them to my studio and I change them into what I hope is a beautiful sculpture. It's like in a fairy-tale, when a frog is changed into a prince."

http://www.suska.cz/e_index.htm 

Beatlemania exhibit & Malastrana

Today, 10/14, my English class went on another field trip, this time to the Czech Museum of Music. I only had 8 minutes in between classes to get to the Narodni Trida tram stop, wait for tram 22, and get to the Hellichova stop... so, besides all of the initial rushing, the trip was good.

The museum currently has a "Beatlemania" exhibit in commemoration of the music group The Beatles. I'm not too sure how this pertained to our class, but I enjoyed the exhibit.

 A yellow submarine, after their song

 Me in front of the wax figures of the 4 band members

After we finished walking around the exhibit, class was over, but a couple of decided to go for a walk. We were already in Malastrana (Lesser Town), and the Lennon Wall was right around the corner. I've already been there before, but after seeing a Beatles exhibit, the timing seemed appropriate for a second visit. Also, after hearing that the love lock bridge is just past the wall, I'd been meaning to go back. There is a small pedestrian bridge off of Velkoprevorske Namesti over a sidearm of the Vltava river in front of a water wheel. Apparently couples attach padlocks to the bridge to symbolize their love.

 Some random costumed people who burst into a dance routine to pop music in front of the wall

 The love lock bridge

Later, I went out to eat for dinner with a few people in my building (Machova). We ate at a place relatively close by, 3 tram stops away called Pivovarský Dům. I ordered the wiener schnitzel with potatoes. I wasn't too impressed with my dish, but it was a nice break from midterm studying. Did I mention that next week is midterms here at NYU? Yeah, contrary to popular belief, I do actually go to classes, and do in fact (sometimes) have work to do, unfortunately.

Jewish Quarters Tour

On Monday, 10/4, my English professor had arranged a tour of the nearby Jewish Quarters since we have an upcoming chapter on Jewish themed literature.

First off, was The Old-New Synagogue. Built in early Gothic style around the middle of the 13th century, it became known as this when other synagogues were later built in Prague. The main hall is the only existing medieval type hall of its kind.

 Old-New Synagogue

Then we passed by King Solomon, a kosher restaurant, that Michelle Obama dined at during a past visit to Prague.

King Solomon Restaurant

Then we went to the Pinkas Synagogue, which has entire walls covered in small type with thousands of names of Holocaust victims. Then, in the Klausen Synagogue, which was the largest synagogue in Prague's Jewish Town and served as the Bural Society. Outside is the Old Jewish cemetery, where thousands are buried. The Pinkas Synagogue was turned into a memorial after WWII to the Jews of Bohemia and Moravia murdered by the Nazis. The Old Jewish cemetery has 12,000 tombstones and several more buried. The oldest tombstone marks poet and scholar Avigdor Kara from 1439. Most prominently, are also Mordechai Maisel (Mayor of the Jewish Town, 1601), David Gans (Renaissance scholar, 1613), Josef Solomon Delmedigo (scholar and historian, 1655), and David Oppenheim (rabbi and Hebrew manuscripts collector, 1736).

Pinkas Synagogue

Old Jewish Cemetery

Next was the Spanish synagogue, and another gallery with walls covered with the text of true life stores. Built in a Moorish style, the synagogue includes an exhibition on the "History of the Jews in Bohemia and Moravia from Emancipation to the Present." And, next was the Ceremonial Hall, which is now an exhibition space. The exhibition is of "Jewish Customs and Traditions."

 Spanish Synagogue

Ceremonial Hall

Jewish street vendors down the street

And, finally we went to the Maisel Synagogue. Originally built in a Renaissance style, it has seen been renovated to a psuedo-Gothic style. It now is used by the Jewish Museum as exhibition space and a depository.

(I was not allowed to take pictures of the interiors of any of these buildings.)

Just another day of class in Prague...

Wednesday, 10/6, I had quite a busy school day. That's probably what I love most about living and studying in Prague: there is no such thing as monotony here! That also sometimes means there is no such thing as having a minute to relax around here! But I had quite a fun day of classes and going around Prague...

In the morning I woke up early to do work (as always, I rarely have time to do work after class in the afternoons like normal people! Instead I have to wake up at crazy, ridiculous hours). I then met fellow Machova-ers, John, Ruby, and Henry, for a breakfast at Bohemia Bagel. Bohemia Bagel is right off of Old Town Square, and is a bagel store with bottomless coffee, wi-fi, and separate smoking and non-smoking sections that is uniquely American in a country full of goulash and dumplings. I had not yet been to Bohemia Bagel, even though it's a 2 min walk from classes, and after over a month in Prague, it was nice to have a taste of home.. or should I say a taste of bagels. Anyone from NJ or the NY area will understand what I mean when I say bagels, delis, and sandwiches such as taylor ham, egg, and cheeses are abundant.

Bacon, egg, and cheese on a Parmesan-oregano bagel

Afterward, I had my Czech class at noon. It was boring, as always. And we learned barely anything, as always. We don't take notes and are not given lessons on what we're learning. Instead, we go straight to the workbook to do exercises, which is an odd teaching method, if you ask me...

My English class was good, as always. We're studying literature from the Eastern European countries and today my professor brought us in a Slovakian feast! Between discussing poems on food, we ate some food.

Assortment of meats and cheeses, a squash pickle, & cranberry sauce
Clockwise:
Langoš- yeast bread
Korbačik- braided natural cow's milk cheese
Blaťácké zlato s vlašskými ořechy- southern Bohemian "gold" with Wallachian walnuts
Parenice uzená pikant- spicy, smoked cheese
Bryndza- fresh sheep's cheese
Cabajka- spicy salami
Salami ribbed with cheese
Dalmaitian prosciutto

After class, I had an hour of downtime, and then I met Kim for dinner at Maitrea. I hadn't been back here in a while, so it was nice to go back. I had meatless "chicken" and mushroom balls with udon noodles, tomato sauce, and coriander.

Kim and I then met up with Laura. Where to next? Oh, only the ballet! The ballets and operas are unlike and like going to Broadway plays in New York City. Unlike because here the shows are really a night out. They take place in beautiful buildings, and you have to dress up. This isn't just another building in the theater district / times square. But also, like because they're fantastic shows full of culture. I still will enjoy going to Broadway musicals when I go back home, but trust me, the ballets and operas are really something else. We saw Cinderella, which was very appropriate since we would know the story perfectly! It was fantastic, and I enjoyed it a lot. Needless to say, we are going back next month to see Sleeping Beauty!

 Statni Opera House

Cinderella cast taking a bow! (I wasn't allowed to take pictures at any other time of the performance.)

The day had been busy and fun filled, but the night was yet to begin. Our NYU in Prague student council had arranged a study abroad mixer at Retro Cafe - conveniently located right across from the Namesti Miru metro stop (the metro I take to school everyday from where I live in Machova). We went to that, where they had a DJ and games, and had a good time with people in our program, as well as other programs that had been invited.

So, that was my Wednesday in a nutshell. You know, just another day of class in Prague. Nothing too out of the ordinary, don't you think?

A Day of Gardens, Ice Cream, and a Jazz Concert

Summer has finally arrived in Prague. 3 weeks after arriving here in late August, the weather this week has been gorgeous. Temperatures in the 70s and sunny throughout the day. Yesterday, 9/22, Brandy, Fahima, and I decided to take advantage of the good weather and do a little adventuring after class. My Czech professor had told us about a little place near a garden where they sell "the best ice cream in Praha," and we set out to find it. Well, it took a little wandering around Wenceslas Square and the surrounding area, but we finally stumbled upon it. The garden is right in the middle of all the hubbub, but isolated from the crowds by huge enclosing walls. And the ice cream? She was right about it being the best.

Františkánská Zahrada: Franciscan Garden

Some flower beds

I plan on trying them all, slowly but surely...

A scoop of tiramisu over a scoop of dark chocolate

After my lunch of ice cream, I had an evening of jazz to look forward to. My English professor had arranged for us to see a jazz concert of Piotr Wyleżoł at the Poland Embassy in The Czech Republic. At the time I was still yet to go to a jazz club in Prague (besides the jazz show I had seen in Český Krumlov) so I was excited to go. Before heading across the river, I had an early dinner at Cafe Mistral with Kim. Cafe Mistral has the aesthetic of an art gallery: minimal with clean lines, muted colors, and lots of open, lighted space. It was no surprise to find that the location previously housed the Arzenal Design Lounge, which sold the art glass of Bořek Šípek.

Homemade quiche with bacon and onion served with mixed vegetable salad

The interior of Mistral Cafe. (Photo credit: Czech Out Channel, Blogspot)

The Embassy was only one metro stop away from Staroměstská (the Old Town Square metro stop), which was very convenient. I met the other 6 girls in my class and we took our seats to enjoy the show. The trio of musicians were definitely talented, intensely dedicated, and gave a great performance! We had some complementary hordeourves to enjoy, and then we headed straight back to Old Town Square. NYU had given us information on a "Czech Country Presentation," which was an event organized by the ISC (International Student Club) at the Czech Technical University in Prague. The aim was for everyone to meet students studying in Prague from all around the world. There was a funny presentation of the Czech Republic (presented by Czech students) and a mock trivia game on stage at the venue. And guess what... they also provided some free Czech food!

The room in the Embassy where the concert took place

Václav Havel Gallery and Vyšehrad Tour

Today in my English class (Literature and Place of Central Europe) we went on a little field trip! We walked about 3 minutes from Old Town Square to Řetězová 7 where the Václav Havel Galerie is located. We have currently been reading a few pieces by Havel, who is a Czech playwright and politician. He was born in Prague, and was the last president of Czechoslovakia, and the first of the Czech Republic. The gallery focused on his literary works and how Havel has become a Czech myth: a story that links people, a story told by some community that helps it understand its history and its own mentality. Havel stood against the Communism that he grew up amidst, and became a symbol for the freedom struggle of Central and Eastern Europe. He was the leader of the 1989 Velvet Revolution and since his term of 13 years at Prague Castle as the country's first post-Communist President, he has maintained his role as a leading moral authority.

A look into his "library"

Several of his quotes on posters

These are some of his famous quotes:

"The only lost cause is one we give up on before we enter the struggle"
- Amnesty International's essay "From Prisoner to President – A Tribute"

"The tragedy of modern man is not that he knows less and less about the meaning of his own life, but that it bothers him less and less."
- Letters to Olga (1988)

Right after class, I went on a tour. NYU offered a few optional guided tours during orientation week, and due to more interest, the program's student council arranged for an additional tour for the student body to go to Vyšehrad, which is located on a hill overlooking the Vltava River.

Vyšehrad is a 1000 year old citadel where, according to legends, Prague was founded.  It was the seat of the first Czech kings, and today you can see the fortifications on rocky cliffs overlooking the city, and also explore the national cemetery, where Antonin Dvořák, Bedrich Smetana, painter Alfons Mucha and many other well known Czechs are buried.

Part of the cemetery

Some pretty columns and alcoves... and also a cemetery

Church of St. Peter and Paul

Cemetery of nun's graves

Rotunda of St. Martin from 11th century. Small weddings (of 10-20 people) have been held here!

Typical day living in Prague... Go to class, go to a gallery commemorating a Czech myth, and go on a tour of a centuries old landmark.

1st day of classes, 9/6/10

Monday was the first day of classes and I had Czech at 12 to 1:20 and Literature and the Place of Central Europe from 1:30 to 2:50.

I'm only taking Czech this semester, since I'm in Prague. So I'm not looking to master the language through taking several courses over the next couple of years, but instead to know a good enough amount to get around living day to day here. Our professor informed us that she assumed as much about our motives behind taking the class. Thus, our class would be moving at a faster pace in order for us to know Czech now rather than at the end of the semester. So far, we have only gone over material we learned during our orientation class. And, we have a quiz this coming Monday on numbers 1-99 and the verbs 'to have' and 'to be.' Fun.

I chose my English class because after my freshman foundation seminar, I have never taken an English course in college. I enjoy writing so this seemed like a good fit. The professor seems engaging and interesting. She has already looked into some day trips outside of the classroom for hands on knowledge. So far, we have been assigned a few poems to read. The literature will be from the Czech Republic, Slovenia, Hungary, Poland, and Slovak Republic.

It's hard to tell how a class will be after only a day or 2, but I don't see myself dropping these two in any case.